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You Must Believe in Spring has become a mantra of sorts for jazz hounds everywhere. French composer Michel Legrand offered this advice in a song lent to the 1967 film, Les Demoiselles de Rochefort. Not quite 13 years later, jazz pianist Bill Evans covered the tune on his album of the same title. Incidentally, if the latter is not part of your collection, it should be.
Believing in spring amidst torrential rainfall, flooding — and even earthquakes — may not seem easy these days. All the more reason to set out on a day trip to Frankenstein, Missouri, and soon — at least before the next big asteroid hits.
To do so, you’ll first need I-44 south. Blow by the Fenton landfill, Six Flags, Lone Elk Park and the nearby wolf sanctuary and take the Washington exit (or highway 100 north). This two-lane highway requires some patience, but you’ve got all day ‘cause you started early — so relax.
From Washington to New Haven plan on 17 miles. After New Haven, the magic of our beautiful state will capture you. You’ll soon come to appreciate why so many emigrant Germans risked their lives to settle here in the nineteenth century. In fact, there will be times along this route that you’ll swear you’re traveling along the Mossel or the Rhine itself.
In her book, How They Came: German Immigration from Prussia to Missouri, author Anita Mallinckrodt cites an 1831 letter from two of her emigrant ancestors in New Orleans to folks back home: “After we have seen Kentucky, we will go to Missouri to settle there. From everyone we hear that is the best place for it [settlement].”
It should be pointed out that you’re headed along the south side of the Missouri river, due west. And yes, there are wineries on this side of Big Muddy, too. Roebbler, Oakglen, Bommarito Estates and Blas deserve your attention. Your designated driver won’t mind stopping at the wineries in order for you to purchase a few souvenirs for later, but will need to stay sharp for the winding hills and memorable turns.
Before you know it, you’ll make it to Hermann, Missouri. If you have time, take a glimpse of what’s to come at the Hermannhof Winery — Octoberfest will never be the same.
If shopping is your spring thing, there’s no shortage of antique stores and novelty shops in Hermann. Visit Antiques Unlimited, for example — or Blanche’s.
If you just can’t tear yourself away from Hermann or feel as though the sirens of the wineries are calling you, check out the DeFlorin Haus. This B&B is really something. Built in 1880, the original owners John and Fidelia DeFlorin raised nine children in this hillside stone house overlooking the valley. According to inkeeper and owner Jerry Snell, Mrs. DeFlorin’s death certificate cites “exhaustion” as the leading cause of her demise. Today the DeFlorin house sleeps four, so choose wisely on how many kids to bring.
From Hermann continue on your journey using highway 100 west. This will take you through the small towns of Gasconade, Morrison and Chamois. The ride is sheer bliss. You’ll be surrounded by field after field of purple clover. That set against the green is something that makes this day trip worth it.
To get to Frankenstein, you’ll need to veer off highway 100 west on highway C. It’s a small town and easy to miss if you’re not careful. Look for what resembles a Fransican monastery on one of the many ridges you’ll traverse. That building is the epicenter of Frankenstein. Established in 1863 as a mission church, the parish of Maria Hilf (literally “Mary Help”) morphed into what it is known today as “Our Lady, Help of Christians.”
At the completion of the Missouri Pacific Railroad from St. Louis to Jefferson City, Irish families settled in the area and were soon followed by scores of Germans. In 1890, Father Bachmeier gave the name, “Frankenstein,” to the site (perhaps named for a German benefactor, according to church records).
The first stone church of Our Lady, Help of Christians was constructed in 1892 and cost $9,000 to build. Among the surviving documentation of fundraising efforts, two African American contributors are mentioned. The Romanesque style church that stands today was dedicated on Labor Day 1923. It is a church that continues to flourish — its elementary school still a haven for the area.
And now you’ve arrived. Frankenstein is quiet. A ballfield, two cemeteries, a church, a school and a view you won’t soon forget.
Take note of the sugar maple trees surrounding the church. Their colors in the third week of October is an event embraced annually by locals and is certainly worth a return trip in the fall.
For now, you can look forward to the annual parish picnic held the first weekend in June — an event marked by hospitality, delicious home-cooked food and quilts of the finest order. Call the parish for details at (573) 897-2293 or the school principal at (573) 897-2567.
And speaking of food, if you haven’t eaten by now, you’ve probably starved to death. For the record, Johnny Mac’s Bar & Grill in neighboring Bonnots Mill is open Thursday through Sunday. And just a minute or so further along highway C is Annie’s Station, recommended by many and open every day of the week.
For the return trip home head south to highway 50 — or if you must get back sooner — head north through Jefferson City to Interstate 70. Neither route will compare to what you’ve just taken in. But no matter what route you take, you’ll be sure to return to Frankenstein with a renewed belief in spring.
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